Water Heater Repair in Houston | Fast Hot Water Restoration

Usually caused by a failed Thermocouple or a bad Gas Control Valve. If the pilot light won’t stay lit, the safety sensor (thermocouple) is telling the valve to shut off the gas. This is a safety feature—not a malfunction.

What We Do: We test the thermocouple with a multimeter to verify it’s generating enough millivolts. If it’s dead, we replace it with a universal or brand-specific thermocouple from our truck inventory. If the gas valve itself has failed (rare but possible), we carry replacement valves for most major brands.

Usually a burnt-out Heating Element or a tripped Thermostat. Electric water heaters have two elements (upper and lower) and two thermostats. If one element fails, you’ll get lukewarm water. If both fail, you get nothing.

What We Do: We shut off the breaker, drain the tank partially, and use a multimeter to test resistance across the element terminals. A good element reads 10-16 ohms. If it reads infinite resistance, it’s open (dead). We replace it and verify the thermostat is functioning.

This sound is caused by Sediment Buildup boiling at the bottom of the tank (like a coffee percolator). Houston’s hard water deposits calcium and minerals that insulate the tank bottom, forcing the burner or element to overheat.

What We Do: We perform a professional flush. We attach a hose to the drain valve and purge the sediment. If the valve is clogged (common), we may need to remove the entire drain valve and install a new one. A full flush can add 2-3 years to your tank’s life.

If the brass valve on the side (Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve) is dripping, your tank might be overheating or experiencing high water pressure. This valve is designed to open at 150 PSI or 210°F to prevent the tank from becoming a bomb.

What We Do: We test the inlet water pressure with a gauge. If it’s over 80 PSI, we recommend installing a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). We also check the thermostat setting—if it’s cranked too high, we adjust it. If the T&P valve itself has failed, we replace it immediately. This is a critical safety component.

If you can light the pilot, but it goes out as soon as you release the button, the thermocouple is the culprit. If the pilot won’t light at all, you may have a gas supply issue or a clogged pilot orifice.

What We Do: We verify gas is flowing to the unit, clean the pilot orifice with compressed air, and test/replace the thermocouple. In rare cases, we may need to replace the entire pilot assembly if the orifice threads are corroded.

If only the hot water is rusty (cold water is clear), the glass lining inside your tank has deteriorated, and the steel is rusting. This is a terminal condition—the tank is dying.

What We Do: We perform a visual inspection and test the water. If the anode rod is completely depleted (which allows tank rust), we can replace it to buy you time. However, if the rust is severe, we recommend replacement before the tank springs a leak.

• The tank is under 8 years old.
• The issue is an external part: thermocouple, gas valve, heating element, thermostat, T&P valve, or pipe connection.
• The tank is not leaking from the bottom.
• You’ve maintained it with periodic flushing.

• Water is leaking from the bottom of the tank itself. This means the glass lining has rusted through. There is no patch for this. It is a terminal failure.
• The tank is 12+ years old and you’re facing a major component replacement (gas valve, multiple elements). At this age, you’re throwing good money after bad.
• The hot water is consistently rusty, and the anode rod is completely gone.
• You’ve had multiple repairs in the past year—the tank is in a failure cascade.

We inspect the metal flue pipe to ensure it isn’t rusted, disconnected, or sagging. A compromised vent can allow Carbon Monoxide (CO) to spill into your living space instead of venting outside. This is a common cause of CO poisoning in homes with older water heaters.

We verify your heater has enough air to burn cleanly. If it’s installed in a tight closet or mechanical room without proper ventilation, it will be “starved” for air. This creates incomplete combustion, which produces soot and dangerous fumes.

We use a draft gauge or smoke pencil to verify that combustion gases are being pulled up the flue properly. If there’s negative pressure (backdrafting), we identify the cause before we leave.

The Flush:

We hook a hose to the drain valve and flush out the calcium sediment that insulates the bottom of the tank. This sediment acts like a blanket—forcing the burner to work harder and reducing efficiency. A yearly flush can extend your tank’s life by 3-5 years.

The Anode Rod:

This is a “sacrificial” magnesium rod suspended inside the tank. It attracts corrosion so your tank doesn’t. Over time, the rod dissolves. Once it’s gone (usually 5-7 years), the tank itself starts rusting.

We check the anode rod during repairs and replace it if it’s depleted. Most homeowners never know this part exists—but it’s the single most important component for longevity.